How to spot fake Pokémon cards
One fake in a bundle can cost you a case, your feedback rating and a buyer's trust. The good news: most counterfeits fail a handful of quick checks. This is how to screen cards fast, especially the job lots and collections you buy to resell, where fakes hide.
1. Start with the back
The back is where cheap fakes give themselves away. Compare a suspect card to one you know is genuine and look at the blue border, the colour of the Poké Ball, and the alignment of the pattern. Fakes are often too dark, too light, slightly miscoloured, or printed off-centre so the border is thicker on one side.
2. The light test
Genuine cards have a thin black layer sandwiched in the middle, so when you hold one up to a bright light very little passes through. Most fakes use cheaper stock with no black core and glow far more. It is one of the fastest, most reliable checks you can do.
3. Texture, gloss and print
Real cards have a subtle linen texture and even, fine print. Under a phone macro shot or a loupe, genuine printing resolves into clean dots; fakes look fuzzy, pixelated, or oddly glossy and plastic. Over-shiny fronts and smeary text are common tells.
4. Font, spacing and the small details
Counterfeiters get the little things wrong: the font weight is slightly off, letter spacing is uneven, the HP number or attack text sits a fraction out of place, or the energy symbols are the wrong shade. Set symbols, copyright lines and card numbers are all worth a close look against a known-genuine card.
5. Weight and the rip test (last resort)
Genuine cards have a consistent weight and stiffness, fakes often feel too light, too floppy or too thick. As an absolute last resort on a worthless suspect card, tearing a corner reveals the black core in a real card; fakes are grey or white all the way through. Only ever do this on a card you have written off, it destroys any value.
6. Holo and foil patterns
On holos, check how the shine sits. Genuine foil follows specific patterns for each era; fakes often put holo across the whole card (including areas that should be flat), or use a cheap, flat sparkle that looks wrong when you tilt it under light.
7. Where fakes hide
Be most careful with bulk, job lots and cheap collections bought to resell, and with anything priced too good to be true. Sealed product can be resealed, so weigh it against known genuine weights and buy from sources you trust. When you are pricing a lot from sold comps, a suspiciously cheap "sold" result is sometimes a fake changing hands.
8. If you find a fake
Take it out and destroy it, do not relist it. Selling counterfeits is illegal in the UK even if you describe them as fake or a "proxy", and it breaches eBay policy. Passing fakes on is exactly the kind of thing that erodes trust in the hobby, and it is not worth your account.
When you buy a collection to flip, Curio helps you catalogue and value every card fast, so you can spend your attention on the few cards worth authenticating and grading, not the commons. It is part of selling Pokémon cards in the UK.
FAQ
- How can you tell a fake Pokémon card?
- Most fakes fail a few quick checks: the back colour and blue border are off, the light test shows the wrong core, print is fuzzy or over-glossy, and the font spacing looks slightly wrong. Any one of these is a red flag; two or more is almost certainly fake.
- What is the light test for Pokémon cards?
- Hold the card up to a bright light. A genuine card has a thin black layer in the middle, so very little light passes through. Most fakes use cheaper card with no black core and let far more light through.
- Should I sell a fake Pokémon card if I say it's fake?
- No. Selling counterfeits is illegal in the UK even if described as fake or a 'proxy', and it breaches eBay policy. If you find one in a job lot, take it out and destroy it rather than pass it on.
Last updated August 2026